T-case Front Output Seal Replacement.

scottsbro23

New Member
OK Here are the tools needed to replace the Seal. 10mm allen wrench (for fill and drain plugs on T-Case) Impact gun, 4" 3 prong puller, 30mm socket...DONT buy the deep socket get the shorter one!, (2) 14 mm wrenches (for the drive shaft removal), Torq wrench (203 ft/lb), Bearing puller (for removing the old seal...GET ONE!! it would have been SOO much easier if we had one), Hammer, Manual calls for a special tool to reseat the new seal..we used somethin that we had and more redneckish.lol.



OK Here we go:

Some of the required tools:





REMOVE T-Case skid plate if applicable..sorry no pics.. (yeah yeah I know...I aint no krh2...lol)



Drain T-case using 10mm Allen wrench..the fluid shoots out about 6-8 inches, so move pan accordingly..lol





Remove front drive shaft by removing the 8 nuts and bolts (4 front & 4 rear) with the 14mm wrench.

You need to beable to rotate the shaft in order to get to all the bolts...we rolled the truck back (while I was under it..lol) in order to get to each bolt. The cross members get in the way abit here.



Here she is..lol





We installed one of the nut/bolt into the flange in order to keep it from spinnning when removing self locking spline nut. Place a wrench on the nut and hold on tight...lol





Once again the crossmember gets in the way (happens often in this repair) but there is enough room to get the impact gun on top of the cross member to break the spline nut free.

Make a mark on both the flange and shaft for proper reinstall..(thats what the manual says to do)



Once the spline nut is off place 3 prong puller (using the short side of the arms) on the flange and remove the flange. (I don't remember what the manual calls it..but I'm calling it a flange. (its what the drive shaft bolts to)





And appears the leaky seal.... THIS IS NOT the condition of the seal after the flange removal. This is after attempting to remove the seal with a screwdriver and needlenose pliers...lol But the screwdriver did get it out.





And here are the bearings behind the seal..





Now lather up the new seal with petroleum jelly (thats what the manual said) and insert it into the output.

It will NOT go in far enough by hand.

The manual calls for a special tool to seat the seal correctly...well Orielly didn't have one..so we improvised....

We used the flange reversed and a 6" long 2x4 and a Hammer...it worked like a champ.





Once the seal is in and seated.. reinstall the flange with marks lined up...we used the same hammer and 2x4 method to seat the flange..

Then install NEW self locking nut and torque to 203 lb/ft. Once again the crossmember gets in the way..lol

Then reinstall drive shaft, BOLT UP THE REAR OF THE DRIVE SHAFT FIRST, this way you can rotate the shaft to get to the bolts with out having to move the truck. (because its not connected to the front diff)



tighten drain plug, fill with 2 & 1/8 quarts (or until it flows out the fill hole) of Matic D or Dextron II Tranny fluid. You need to use a pump to get the fluid in the T-Case. Tighten fill plug.

Install skid plate...and enjoy.



I didn't get enough pics taken... we started @ 6:45 pm and and finished at 8:45... not bad with the beer breaks and searching for tools.. If we would have had the Bearing Puller for the seal we would have had more time to drink...lol



I will check in the morning..but no leaks tonight.
 

krh2

Administrator
Most excellent Steve! Nice job! Glad you could do it on your own. Now how 'bout puttin it in the tech wiki...

BTW, looks like you got done rather late and still managed to post about it.
 

scottsbro23

New Member
I tried to post it in the Wiki....but it wouldn't let me..



I got done around 20:45...then hung out drinkin' some cold ones while the little ones played ..then headed home and got dinner on the way..lol dinner at 22:00 aint good for the ole' figure... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/005.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt087' />

After dinner had to work on Baseball stuff, watch some TV, then did the write up.



It took us 2 hours total HK. Would have been faster if we had a bearing puller to remover the old seal.



Just checked this mornin.... ZERO leaks!! Woot!



TOTAL COST:



$12.50 for the Seal and self lock nut (got a discount on these.. original price was $23.50 total)

$6.75 for the Dextron II Tranny Fluid (I went with the walmart brand..I've heard good things about there fluids)

$9.00 for the 3 arm 4" Puller

$6.00 for the 30MM Deep socket.



For a grand total of $34.25 Beats the heck out of what the dealer would have charged me! <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/001.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt006' />

Plus I got to wrench on my truck.



Now today I think I'll go find somewhere to use my newly wrenched on T-Case.... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt088' />



And did I mention... no need for lifting the truck...lol that is a bonus.
 

scottsbro23

New Member
[quote name='krh2' post='121739' date='Feb 10 2008, 08:39 PM']You Da Man Steve! Copied to tech wiki for ya.... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/002.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt001' /> <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt003' />[/quote]



Thanks Brutha... sip....ahhhh <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt044' />
 

krh2

Administrator
[quote name='scottsbro23' post='121749' date='Feb 10 2008, 08:34 PM']Thanks Brutha... sip....ahhhh <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt003' />[/quote]



No problem brudda! Sip...ahhh..... cough....cough.....Damn... Who mixed this thing?!...... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/002.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt001' /> <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt044' />
 

jdmartin

Active Member
Good writeup, good job!



For future reference, or maybe to add to the wiki, if you don't/can't/won't want to move the truck, you don't have to if you've got everything in neutral - then you just grab that driveshaft with those He-man arms and spin! Though I don't remember if the switchable 4WD has a detent for neutral on the switch - this is based off of years of wrenching on other 4wds with a classic transfer case lever. Stick everything in neutral and you can spin the driveshafts all day long. Just make sure you're not on a hill and there's wheel chocks down and the parking brake on, or you'll be in for a big surprise <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/103.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt003' />



And yeah, a seal puller makes life a whole lot easier - just angle that bad-boy in there and out comes the mudda...
 

scottsbro23

New Member
[quote name='jdmartin' post='121832' date='Feb 12 2008, 10:53 AM']Good writeup, good job!



For future reference, or maybe to add to the wiki, if you don't/can't/won't want to move the truck, you don't have to if you've got everything in neutral - then you just grab that driveshaft with those He-man arms and spin! Though I don't remember if the switchable 4WD has a detent for neutral on the switch - this is based off of years of wrenching on other 4wds with a classic transfer case lever. Stick everything in neutral and you can spin the driveshafts all day long. Just make sure you're not on a hill and there's wheel chocks down and the parking brake on, or you'll be in for a big surprise <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/103.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt003' />



And yeah, a seal puller makes life a whole lot easier - just angle that bad-boy in there and out comes the mudda...[/quote]



AHHHH I'm such a knob..(Shut up DD).not to think of throwin the T-Case into Neutral... although I don't think the Titan has a Neutral on the dial....but I should have atleast been smart enough to try it...lol
 

d0va

New Member
thats a nice write up specially now that my truck is leaking from there too...











did you felt anything wrong with the truck before you replace it. I been feeling a clunk on mined after I stop.
 

scottsbro23

New Member
[quote name='d0va' post='121900' date='Feb 12 2008, 07:55 PM']thats a nice write up specially now that my truck is leaking from there too...











did you felt anything wrong with the truck before you replace it. I been feeling a clunk on mined after I stop.[/quote]



Nope didn't notice anything different at all.... I also thought I was driving around with little to no fluid in the Tcase, with as much as it had been leaking... that caused my mind to make me think I felt more drag on the drivetrain..but there was none.. lol.. My truck was making me crazy.



Dova, next time your under it look at the brass sleeve. (after the u joint)..I knew mine was leaking from the seal, cause it would drip from the bottom of the brass sleeve... yours looks like it may be the electrical connectors that are leaking.....that should be an even easier fix.



Also...I had the front diff input seal replaced by the dealer last month. When I went to remove the front drive shaft, the bolts closest to the T-Case where WAY easier to loosen than the ones the Dealer had to remove on the front of the drive shaft. So either they over torques em or EVERYONE with a 4x4 needs to check the bolts on the front drive shaft.... I thought at first my bro in law had allready broke em loose when I started to loosen em.
 

d0va

New Member
I posted this on MT and shailey said that does electrical connecters dont leak he thinks is from the leak of the seals, that they got dirty, I wipe off the spot and I check on the floor to see if I have drips or marks of oil but I dont have any, I guess is a real small leak.



This is my 4x I have a leak in the tcase, luckly and thanks to all this forums I check it often and I been able to spot the leak and find the loose bolt. But this time I havent found a loose bolt on it and Im also concern w/the way the connector is a dirty.



The funny part is that last time I took the titan to the dealer they where going to replace the driveshaft seal but I had already check the truck and knew it was a loose bolt on the tcase. But my tech didnt even knew it was loose bolt. I had to stop him and show him the loose bolt.



Im taking my truck tomorrow. Hopefully they wont try to hassle me...



Thanks ScottsBro
 

scottsbro23

New Member
[quote name='d0va' post='121978' date='Feb 13 2008, 09:57 PM']I posted this on MT and shailey said that does electrical connecters dont leak he thinks is from the leak of the seals, that they got dirty, I wipe off the spot and I check on the floor to see if I have drips or marks of oil but I dont have any, I guess is a real small leak.



This is my 4x I have a leak in the tcase, luckly and thanks to all this forums I check it often and I been able to spot the leak and find the loose bolt. But this time I havent found a loose bolt on it and Im also concern w/the way the connector is a dirty.



The funny part is that last time I took the titan to the dealer they where going to replace the driveshaft seal but I had already check the truck and knew it was a loose bolt on the tcase. But my tech didnt even knew it was loose bolt. I had to stop him and show him the loose bolt.



Im taking my truck tomorrow. Hopefully they wont try to hassle me...



Thanks ScottsBro[/quote]

No problem at all....glad I was of some use... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/003.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt004' />
 

scottsbro23

New Member

titan_panzer

New Member
guys How can I replace the seal that goes on the front differential. Is the same procedure? what about the torque, a tech told me that if I passed the torque I can damage the bearing spacer inside the case. I need some help.



regards
 

honeykeeper

New Member
[quote name='titan_panzer' post='151420' date='Aug 2 2009, 01:30 AM']guys How can I replace the seal that goes on the front differential. Is the same procedure? what about the torque, a tech told me that if I passed the torque I can damage the bearing spacer inside the case. I need some help.



regards[/quote]



Welcome to TheSpot titan_panzer.... <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/006.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt001' />



Mine is starting to leak too and I'll be replacing it sometime soon.

You must be aware of the pretension on the ring and pinion gears in the drive case which does effect item #12 in diagram #2....(the collapsable spacer)....I think that's what he meant.

I would measure the drive pinion nut tension preload with a torque wrench before you remove it.

You will need a new self locking drive pinion nut and the seal....#21 & 19 in diagram #1.

[attachment=8854] [attachment=8856]
 

Attachments

titan_panzer

New Member
So I have to measure it. How am i gonna know what is the exact torque with the tool. I need to apply the force until the nut start to go out? it seems something complicated, I'll try either way, nissan wants 350 bucks for change it. Any help would be great.
 

Reka

New Member
Is this called the front pinion seal? I believe I had this repair done on my 05 with 87,000 mi. Now at 115,000 mi. I recently notice a slight fluid leak on my driveway after a 1600mi drive to Nashville and back to south NJ. Prior to my trip I had an oil change service from local Nissan dealer. I checked under the truck and noticed wet spot at same location. Is there any know cause or good reason to this failing or is it just a where and tear deal ?
 
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