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Battery Terminal Corrosion, Anyone Know What Causes It?
#1
Twenty days ago I went to my Nissan dealership to have a number of things done.



I had noticed an excessive amount of corrosion on my battery terminal so I asked to service writer to have the battery terminal cleaned while the truck was in for service. At the time the service writer was writing up the service order, I told him to ask them to vacuum the white powder off the battery top instead of blowing it all over the engine compartment with an air hose.



I checked the battery last week and, although the technician had replaced the battery terminal clamp, the corrosion has returned in just a matter of a couple of weeks. I have a Ford F-150 that had a battery replaced almost 5 years ago and the terminal are still corrosion free. The Nissan battery cable terminal are extremely flimsy looking compared to the Ford battery cable terminals.



Does anyone know why the Titan is causing so much corrosion on the at the battery terminal? And why the Ford is not?



[Image: TitanBattery0052copy.jpg]



Titan battery with new replacement cable end that was replaced two weeks ago.




[Image: FordBattery003Copy.jpg]



Ford battery that was replaced almost 5 years ago is corrosion free.



[Image: FordBattery0071.jpg]



Engine compartment covered with white specks of battery corrosion that was blown all over with air hose. Pissed me off! <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/013.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt012' />
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#2
Using Google to try to find the reason for battery corrosion terminals, it appears that the corrosion is caused by fumes from the battery. Probably this battery is out-gassing and the corrosive atmosphere in the immediate vicinity of the battery is causing the corrosion. Perhaps this may be a sign of a battery in the twilight stages of its life.



Apparently the Ford battery that doesn't show any corrosion on its connectors is still a "healthy" battery and doesn't yet cause the acidic corrosive environment that corrodes the battery connectors.



It is probably a good time to start shopping for an Red Top Optima 34R like jhromy bought for his ride. Hopefully that will solve the corrosion problem at least for a while.



Yes, that the ticket! It time to buy all the parts. <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/023.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt012' />





Edit: I found that BigSkiff wrote a techwiki on the Optima battery installation that is very informative. Thanks Skiffer.
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#3
mcginkleschmidtUsing Google to try to find the reason for battery corrosion terminals, it appears that the corrosion is caused by fumes from the battery. Probably this battery is out-gassing and the corrosive atmosphere in the immediate vicinity of the battery is causing the corrosion. Perhaps this may be a sign of a battery in the twilight stages of its life.



Apparently the Ford battery that doesn't show any corrosion on its connectors is still a "healthy" battery and doesn't yet cause the acidic corrosive environment that corrodes the battery connectors.



It is probably a good time to start shopping for an Red Top Optima 34R like jhromy bought for his ride. Hopefully that will solve the corrosion problem at least for a while.



Yes, that the ticket! It time to buy all the parts. <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/023.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt012' />





Edit: I found that BigSkiff wrote a techwiki on the Optima battery installation that is very informative. Thanks Skiffer.





The other thing to take into account is that the battery terminals on your ford are lead, and the posts on most if not all car batteries are lead, another thing that causes corrosion, happens a lot in computers, is humidity + dis-similar metals... the nissan stock stuff is what looks like stamped steel, or possibly coated copper, which would produce the best for current flow and draw, but would also make the outside of your battery (especially at the clamps) like the inside of your battery... the cells inside your battery are the same basic composition, there are 2 dis-similar metals, one part lead, the other is generally copper, this with the electrolytic solution (battery acid) creates current, the corrosion you see is created from the on the nissan is due to dis-similar metals, not due to the battery venting (who makes this stuff up)...
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#4
tc3driverThe other thing to take into account is that the battery terminals on your ford are lead, and the posts on most if not all car batteries are lead, another thing that causes corrosion, happens a lot in computers, is humidity + dis-similar metals... the nissan stock stuff is what looks like stamped steel, or possibly coated copper, which would produce the best for current flow and draw, but would also make the outside of your battery (especially at the clamps) like the inside of your battery... the cells inside your battery are the same basic composition, there are 2 dis-similar metals, one part lead, the other is generally copper, this with the electrolytic solution (battery acid) creates current, the corrosion you see is created from the on the nissan is due to dis-similar metals, not due to the battery venting (who makes this stuff up)...



Everything you say makes sense but when a battery cable connector develops this amount of corrosion in two weeks, there must be something else at work here. My truck was in exactly three weeks ago today when the terminal clamp was replaced with a new one and the battery post and clamp was sprayed with the red spray that is supposed to reduce the development of corrosion. Last week I again noticed the corrosion and sucked it off with my shop vacuum and it immediately comes back. I believe this is definitely different that a normal situation.



As for who makes this stuff up, it seems like a plausible situation to me with acidic atmospheric conditions not dissimilar to the corrosive conditions around a beach that affect many outdoor metal components such as outside AC compressors for home AC.



I'm taking my truck back into the dealer this morning for a botched KC rear door harness recall where the outcome is a locked rear seat belt, the condition the recall was supposed to prevent. The first time the rear seat was used after the recall repair, the seat belt was found to be unusable. I'll ask the dealer their thoughts about the battery terminal corrosion when I take the truck in today.
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate...



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#5
Well the dealer cleaned the battery terminal connectors of the corrosive salts. Nobody had any answers except that the service writer told me the tech said that Nissan vehicles seem to be particularly prone to this problem. This makes absolutely no sense to me. There was a large pile of corrosion at the base of the battery and it is likely the battery may have a crack in it and is leaking fluid. I'm going to go ahead and order the components needed to install a new Optima 34R Red Top battery with the spiral construction and gel technology. I believe that will probably take care of the corrosion problem. Hell, the truck went for four years without any problem before the persistent buildup of corrosion. I don't believe for a moment that Nissan vehicles are all running around with battery terminal corrosion.



As to the outcome of the locked rear seatbelt after the retrofit was performed on the KC rear door harness recall, the seat belt was caught on interior of the rear seat and wouldn't bulge. It was a fast and simple fix.
DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate...



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#6
mcginkleschmidtUsing Google to try to find the reason for battery corrosion terminals, it appears that the corrosion is caused by fumes from the battery. Probably this battery is out-gassing and the corrosive atmosphere in the immediate vicinity of the battery is causing the corrosion. Perhaps this may be a sign of a battery in the twilight stages of its life.



Apparently the Ford battery that doesn't show any corrosion on its connectors is still a "healthy" battery and doesn't yet cause the acidic corrosive environment that corrodes the battery connectors.



It is probably a good time to start shopping for an Red Top Optima 34R like jhromy bought for his ride. Hopefully that will solve the corrosion problem at least for a while.



Yes, that the ticket! It time to buy all the parts. <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/023.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt023' />





Edit: I found that BigSkiff wrote a techwiki on the Optima battery installation that is very informative. Thanks Skiffer.





ive had no corrosion on my battery terminals since putting in the optima
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#7
My suggestion would be to clean the terminals with baking soda and water, wait for them to completely dry, then coat the terminals and leads with dielectric grease.
05 KC SE Smoke

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#8
tc3driverthe corrosion you see is created from the on the nissan is due to dis-similar metals, not due to the battery venting (who makes this stuff up)...





I think you got your facts wrong chief!! DC batteries do vent gas!! <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/002.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt023' />



Flooded Valve Regulated Lead Acid Batteries (VRLAB)

Flooded or vented lead acid battery The oldest types of lead acid batteries are flooded cell types. These have been around for decades and evolved from wooden box models into the plastic valve regulated models on the market today. The electrolyte in these batteries is liquid sulfuric acid solution. This stuff is pretty corrosive and has destroyed more than a few sets of clothes and pieces of RV gear. VRLA flooded batteries generate and vent dangerous explosive gases through their valve regulation and must be vented to the outside world. These batteries also acid "mist" during charging and discharging. This leads to the corrosion of their terminals, and often-acid damage to surrounding surfaces. (look at your car battery for an example) VRLA Flooded batteries must be installed upright, can leak that acid, and require regular watering. Should they fail to be watered, they will not perform to spec.
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#9
TitanOn24sI think you got your facts wrong chief!! DC batteries do vent gas!! <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/002.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt002' />



Flooded Valve Regulated Lead Acid Batteries (VRLAB)

Flooded or vented lead acid battery The oldest types of lead acid batteries are flooded cell types. These have been around for decades and evolved from wooden box models into the plastic valve regulated models on the market today. The electrolyte in these batteries is liquid sulfuric acid solution. This stuff is pretty corrosive and has destroyed more than a few sets of clothes and pieces of RV gear. VRLA flooded batteries generate and vent dangerous explosive gases through their valve regulation and must be vented to the outside world. These batteries also acid "mist" during charging and discharging. This leads to the corrosion of their terminals, and often-acid damage to surrounding surfaces. (look at your car battery for an example) VRLA Flooded batteries must be installed upright, can leak that acid, and require regular watering. Should they fail to be watered, they will not perform to spec.




I never said they don't vent gas, there is a reason you aren't supposed to smoke around a charging battery... I am saying that dis-similar metals are more responsible for terminal corrosion than the venting of the battery. there would be a lot more damage under the hood, than just some corroded terminals, if the battery was venting enough to corrode terminals in a day's time.
"Earth is the cradle of humanity, but one cannot remain in the cradle forever." - Konstantin Tsiolkovsky

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future mods: #1 is done Big Grin #2 PRG Off-road traction Bars, #3 Amp Power Steps, #4 an as yet undecided CAI, #5 Deaver rear leaf pack, and #6 Radflow Front shocks.

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#10
I checked the price at the closest Advanced Auto Parts store and the price of the Optima Red Top Battery, 34R, is $155.98 with a $10 core charge. Additionally, between 7/01/08 and 9/15/08, Optima is running a $25 mail in rebate that lowers the battery to $130.98. This is the kind of price I've been looking for. I called the store and they have the 34R in stock so I will driving over to pick up my Optima battery in about an hour.



Anyone else game for an Optima Red Top battery at this price? <img src='http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/023.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':smt004' />
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#11
[quote name='mcginkleschmidt' timestamp='1214929574' post='129439']

Well the dealer cleaned the battery terminal connectors of the corrosive salts. Nobody had any answers except that the service writer told me the tech said that Nissan vehicles seem to be particularly prone to this problem. This makes absolutely no sense to me. There was a large pile of corrosion at the base of the battery and it is likely the battery may have a crack in it and is leaking fluid. I'm going to go ahead and order the components needed to install a new Optima 34R Red Top battery with the spiral construction and gel technology. I believe that will probably take care of the corrosion problem. Hell, the truck went for four years without any problem before the persistent buildup of corrosion. I don't believe for a moment that Nissan vehicles are all running around with battery terminal corrosion.



As to the outcome of the locked rear seatbelt after the retrofit was performed on the KC rear door harness recall, the seat belt was caught on interior of the rear seat and wouldn't bulge. It was a fast and simple fix.

[/quote]



I have a 06 TitAN LE now on my 3ed battery (Optima red top 12 months old) Two weeks ago and again yesterday it wouldn't start. After jumping it off I went to Auto Parts and had it tested. Battery was OK but there was a small amount of corrusion under positive cable. The tech said that could be my problem. After reading about the unlike metals (Post vs Connector) I changed it out to Lead connector. Time will tell, I guess.
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#12
Chewing through batteries can be the sign of a bad alternator.
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#13
It has been a while now since I changed my OEM Nissan battery to the Optima Redtop. At the time when I changed from my Nissan OEM battery, it was quite evident what was causing all of the corrosion buildup on the battery terminals - mostly on the negative terminal. There was a "clamp" on the engine side of the battery box that could be tightened to hold the battery securely inside the battery box. Apparently, probably when the battery was installed at he factory, the "clamp" was overtightened and over time the locking clamp cut into the side of the battery causing the battery to leak and allowing battery fumes to escape causing corrosion buildup on the battery terminals.



Since the battery swap, the Optima battery has worked flawlessly with no corrosion buildup. You might check to see if the Optima battery envelope has been similarly compromised in some way to allow battery fumes to escape.
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#14
well the term would be galvanic corrosion its when two disimilliar metals contact each other and cause some type of corrosion. my titan hasnt had problems with corrosion though. i believe sometimes if the connectors/clamps are old they can move a little and for some reason seems to make it corrode faster. if a alternator is over charging it can weaken and practically burn through the cables never heard of that causing corrosion though.
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